Sunday, 3 October 2010

A Quick Trip To Curbar

Some pictures and video from Saturdays trip out to Curbar.

The days highlight was a route called Sorrels Sorrow which is graded HVS 5a. It's best described as a "traditional climb" in the proper old school scene of the word. The kind of thing  people did back when climbers were real men and women with thousand yard stares and biceps honed by juggling sacks of coal. The route is an off-width crack which basically means it is too wide to jam your hands in but to narrow to jam your body in. 

Seconding I repeatedly fell off the first overhanging move where the crack proper is gained by some horrible arm-bar / heal-toe jamming malarkey swiftly followed by shuffling upwards with your shoulder wedged in to the crack. Character building is a term that comes to mind; this would have been a particularly impressively bold lead in the days before camming devices when the only protection would have been chock stone wedged into the crack. Sweat and swearwords materialise in profusion as I pull into a mid hight rest. The upper section was considerably easier with some good jams on less steep terrain. Overall it was awful, it was awkward, it was horrific, it was brilliant, I left half my skin on it.

George then attempted Moon Crack, this is about as far as he got.

Wicks having a go at a hard V5 boulder problem.

Me having a go on an easy but brilliant VDiff crack line.

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